MIDDLETOWN HIGH SCHOOL NORTH - 63 Tindall Road, Middletown Township, NJ  07748 - Phone:  732-706-6061  Fax:  732-706-9575

Patricia Vari-Cartier, Ed.D., Principal

HSN Photography II Assignment List

Photography II Class 

This semester class is for those who LOVE to take photographs.  Almost all of the assigned work for this semester involves taking, processing and printing the students' own original images; therefore, students should be prepared to take a LOT of photographs during these months.

General Assignment List for Photography II
To earn a passing grade for this half-year class you must earn a passing grade average in each of the following categories: 

  1. Photo assignments and projects  - 65% of grade
  2. Daily "Do Now" assignments (Most of the "Do Now" assignments for this semester course will take the form of contact sheets to be printed from weekly photo assignments, however textbook assignments/projects, &/or other short reading / writing assignments may also be given from time to time.) - 10% of grade
  3. Quizzes and Tests - 10% of grade (Some quizzes and tests will be "hands-on;" that is, the student will be required to demonstrate the ability to complete a hands-on task.)
  4. Other written assignments (extended textbook assignments, Photo Critique Guide, Reading Assignment Worksheets, etc.) - 10% of grade
  5. Maintain an organized loose-leaf binder that contains all the photo assignments and hand-out sheets. 5% of grade

Extra Credit may be earned by completing special photo projects and/or writing assignments. (Click here for examples.)


Photo Projects(Please Note:  Since this is a second-level photo course, there are a larger number and wider variety of photo projects per marking period than were assigned during Photo I.) Click on the name of the project below  to go to the general instructions for that project.)

Photo Project - Night Photography

Photo Project - Action Photography / Panning

Photo Project - Window Light

Photo Montage

Poem Montage Poster

Comic Sequence

Dual Image

Photo Project  - Alphabet

David Hockney Style Collage

Constructed Relief

Stereo / 3-D Photo Set

Photo Project - Product Photography

Photo Project  - Outdoor Scenic

Photo Essay Project

Portfolio

Career Unit

 


 Night & Low Light Photos
(Only students who did not complete this assignment for Photography I class are required to complete this assignment.)

1.  Photo Project #5 - Night Photography Unit  (DIGITAL CAMERA USERS – click here)

(using bracketing technique)

Use the instructions given on the next pages to photograph several different types of subject matter in such a way that you capture 4-5 bracketed* sets of high quality night photo &/or other interesting low-light photos (You may photograph either outdoors – lighted bridges, houses or buildings decorated with lights, etc. - or indoors  - candles, lighted miniature ceramic houses, Christmas tree lights, etc. - to create an interesting photo.)
*Bracketing  (definition)   To “bracket” means take several pictures of the same scene,  but for each one change either the camera lens aperture or the shutter speed, (but not both at the same time).

Remember:  Low Light/Night Photography is guess work!  How much time you need for a proper exposure can vary based on film speed, how much light is present, wind conditions, & even temperature*.  Some shots can take as much as 7-20 minutes!

·         For this & every assignment it is necessary for you to keep records of the specific camera settings you used to record each image.

·         After taking all of the assigned photographs, develop the film using instructions given in class.

·         Allow the processed negatives to dry, then cut the strip into sets of 5 frames and store the negatives in an archival storage page (available in class).

·         Use the instructions given in class to scan the best negative in each set of 5 bracketed images.  Set the output/print size setting on your negative scanner to 9 x 6" so that the resolution setting will be high enough to produce a fine quality image.

·         Use Adobe Photoshop and the instructions given in class to "optimize" your image.

FOR THIS UNIT YOU WILL BE REQUIRED TO SUBMIT…

1.        A contact sheet that shows the set of bracketed photos

2.        A PowerPoint slideshow that contains a title slide plus 11 additional slides as follows: 

a.      A slide that contains small photo images of each of the 5 bracketed photos for the first night/low light “scene”

b.      A slide that contains the best image of that set.

c.       Repeat steps a & b for all four night / low light “scenes”

d.      A slide that contains small photo images of each of the bracketed photos for either your “ghost” or your white outline photo

e.      A slide that contains your best “ghost” or white outline image.

3.        Two  9" X 6"  photos as follows: .....Select the best two of all of your night/low-light images and make one 9" x 6"  photo quality print of each of the two images.  

4.         One  9" X 6"  photo as follows: .....Select the best of your ghost or white outline images and make one 9" x 6"  photo quality print of that image. (Ghost image instructions are on pgs 5-6 of this hand-out sheet.  White outline instructions are on pgs 7-8.)

5.        (*WHEN YOU SUBMIT YOUR NIGHT PHOTO UNIT PROJECT SET ... remember to submit all parts of the unit at the same time for grading. )

 

Equipment needed for this project:

·        35mm Camera with suitable lens

·        Tripod

·        Cable Release

·        Film (ISO 125 is acceptable, but faster film will allow shorter exposure times)

·        Small Flashlight (useful to see camera or lens when you are checking or adjusting aperture &/or shutter speed)  

·        Pack camera, cable release & tripod carefully
(If weather is very cold, place camera in plastic bag first to prevent condensation problems)  
*Very cold weather can cause camera/meter to ‘lock up’&/or can cause lens to ‘fog up’ (due to condensation).

SAFETY RULES:

·         Never go out alone when you intend to photograph at night.
(Always go in the company of another student in your photography class or with some other responsible adult.)

·         Always dress appropriately.  

Directions:  (To produce a good photograph with low light and/or night conditions)

A.  Practice these steps before you go to the place where you want to take your photograph(s)

 1.)  Set up camera and tripod

 2.)  Attach, test, & practice using your cable release 

3.)  Set lens aperture to f/8 

B.  Select an appropriate place for night or low light photographs

C.   Set up tripod and mount the camera; make sure that camera is level with the plane of the horizon.

D.  Attach cable release

E.  Set lens aperture to f / 8

F. Compose your photo & Focus carefully (use distance scale if necessary)

G.  Turn your camera’s on/off switch to the ‘on’ position

H.  Take a set of bracketed* exposures as follows:

1.  Set shutter speed at 1/2 second (Shutter Speed / Mode readout Window shows ‘2’)

2.  Set shutter speed at 1 second (Shutter Speed / Mode readout Window shows ‘1’)

3.  Set shutter speed at ‘B’ (Shutter Speed / Mode readout shows ‘B’)

      Open camera shutter by pressing in cable release pin and holding it depressed

      wait 30 seconds, then release the  pin to close shutter.

4.  Set shutter speed at ‘B’ (Shutter Speed / Mode readout shows ‘B’)

      Open camera shutter by pressing in cable release pin and holding it depressed

      wait 1 minute, then release the  pin to close shutter.

5.  Set shutter speed at ‘B’ (Shutter Speed / Mode readout Window shows ‘B’)

      Open camera shutter by pressing in cable release pin and holding it depressed

      wait 2 minutes, then release the  pin to close shutter.

I.  Pack up camera, cable release & tripod carefully

(If weather is very cold, place camera in plastic bag first to prevent condensation problems)

Take Four different sets of photos as explained above – one set of five photos for each of four different scenes.  For your fifth photo set use the instructions given in class to take either a “ghost” photo or a light outline photo.

Making Ghost-like Images - (Negative/Film method)

1.      Put your camera f/stop  (aperture) on f/8

2.      Turn the shutter speed dial to “B”

3.      Attach a cable release to the cable release socket on your camera.

4.      Mount your camera onto a tripod.

5.      With the room lights on, focus on your subject.

6.      Turn the room lights off.

7.      Press the cable release and lock it open.

8.      Use a flashlight as your light source.  Turn the flashlight on and point it at your subject.  Keep it on for about 10 seconds.

9.      Turn your flashlight off and have your subject move to the second “ghostly” position (take a step to one side.)

10.  Turn the flashlight on again for about 10 seconds and then turn it off.

11.  (Each time you turn the flashlight on you change the silver particles on your film and create a partial image.  If you turn the flashlight on three times, you form three “ghost” images on your print.)

12.  The final stage is to create a background image.  This is the tricky part because you need enough light energy to make the scene at least twice as intense (solid looking) as any of the “ghosts” but if you give the room background too much light energy the ghosts will disappear entirely.  Just flipping on the  room’s light switch up and down (leaving the lights on for only a fraction of a second) usually works pretty well.  For outdoor scenes you might try flipping a car's headlights on & off again instead of room lights.

13.  After you have added the room exposure to the ghost exposures (with the room now dark again) go back to the camera and unlock the cable release to close the shutter and complete that frame. 

14.  Press the film advance lever to advance to the next frame & get ready to take the next photo.

15.  For best results you should bracket your exposures by repeating the steps above using slightly different times.  (12 seconds or 14 seconds instead of ten seconds for each ghost image and quicker or slower flashes of the room’s lights.)

Making a Light Rim (white line light outline) Photo

Put your camera f/stop  (aperture) on f/8

1.      Turn the shutter speed dial to “B”

2.      Attach a cable release to the cable release socket on your camera.

3.      Mount your camera onto a tripod.

4.      With the room lights on, focus on your subject.

5.      Turn the room lights off.

6.      Press the cable release and lock it open.

7.      Use a flashlight as your light source. 

8.      Walk behind your subject, face the flashlight toward the camera lens and turn it on.

9.      Move the flashlight at a slow, steady rate along the outline edge of your subject (as though you were tracing the outline of your subject using a flashlight instead of a pencil).

10.  When you have traced then entire outline, turn your flashlight off..

11.  Go back to the camera and unlock the cable release to close the shutter and complete that frame.

12.  Press the film advance lever to advance to the next frame & get ready to take the next photo.

(Create a bracketed set of light rim photos as follows…)

13.  Repeat steps 6 – 12 again, but this time move the flashlight more quickly along the edge of your subject.

14.  Repeat steps 6 – 12 again, but this time move the flashlight as slowly as you can along the edge of your subject.

15.  Repeat steps 6 – 12 one more time, but this time before you press the cable release, change the aperture from f/8 to f/5.6. 

 

Suggested Aperture/Shutter Speed Combinations  (with ISO 400 film)
For other special low light situations

Situation

f/stop

Bracket using these Shutter speeds

Neon Lights                   

f/4       

1/30th sec., 1/60,1/125,  1/250,

Campfires

f/5.6    

1/15thsec., 1/30th, 1/60,1/125,

Television                      

f/5.6    

1/30th sec., 1/60,1/125,

Brightly Lit Streets         

f/4       

1/8th sec., 1/15th,1/30th, 1/60,1/125,

Floodlit Buildings

f/16     

1 minute, 30 seconds, 15sec.,1 sec., 1/2 sec. 

Skylines                         

f/5.6    

 1/2 sec., 1 sec., 30 sec., 1 minute, 2 minutes

Landscape w/ full moon f/8 1/2 sec., 1 sec., 30 sec., 1 minute, 2 minutes
Landscape w/snow f/8 1/2 sec., 1 sec., 15 sec., 30 sec., 1 minute

Rainy Night

f/11

1second, 2 sec.4 sec., 8 sec., 15 sec., 30 sec.,

Snowy Night

f/11

1/2 sec., 1 sec., 15 sec., 30 sec., 1 minute

Wet Streets

f/8

1/4 second

Wet beach                                          

f/8

1/4 second

Home interior - night -average. lighting

f/2

1/15thsecond., 1/30th sec., 1/60 sec.,

Interiors w/ bright fluorescent lighting

f/4

1/15th sec., 1/30th sec., 1/60th sec.,1/125th sec., 

School stages & auditoriums (bright)

f/2

1/30th second, 1/60th sec.,1/125th sec., 

School stages & auditoriums (average)

f/2

1/15th second, 1/30th sec., 1/60th sec.,

Candlelighted close-ups

f/2

1/4th sec., 1/8th sec., 1/15th sec., 1/30th, 1/60,

Store windows

f/4

1/30th second, 1/60thsec.,1/125th sec.,

Flood lighted buildings / fountains

f/2

˝ second, 1/8th sec., 1/15th sec., 1/30th sec.,

Skyline 10 min after sunset

f/5.6

1/15th second, 1/30th sec., 1/60,1/125

Fireworks

f/16

keep shutter open for several bursts

Night sports events (Brightly Lit)

f/2

1/60th sec.,1/125th sec., 1/250th sec

Church interiors (tungsten light)

f/2

1/15th sec., 1/30th sec., 1/60 sec.,.  

Amusement parks / fairs

f/2

1/15th sec., 1/30th sec., 1/60th sec.,1/125th sec.,

     

Digital NIGHT and LOW LIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY

Remember:  Low Light/Night Photography is largely educated guess work!  How much time you need for a proper exposure can vary based on film speed, how much light is present, wind conditions, & even temperature.  Some shots can take as much as 7-20 minutes!   Also remember that very cold weather can cause your  camera/meter to ‘lock up’&/or can cause lens to ‘fog up’ (due to condensation).

*Bracketing  (definition)   To “bracket” means take several pictures of the same scene,  but for each one change either the camera lens aperture or the shutter speed, (but not both at the same time).

SAFETY RULES:  Never go out alone when you intend to photograph at night.(Always go in the company of another student in your photography class or with some other responsible adult.)  Always dress appropriately.

 Equipment Needed:

·         Camera with adjustable settings

·         Tripod

·         Small Flashlight (useful to see camera or lens when you are checking or adjusting aperture &/or shutter speed)

FOR THIS UNIT YOU WILL BE REQUIRED TO SUBMIT…

1.        A contact sheet that shows the set of bracketed photos

2.        A PowerPoint slideshow that contains a title slide plus 11 additional slides as follows: 

a.      A slide that contains small photo images of each of the 5 bracketed photos for the first night/low light “scene”

b.      A slide that contains the best image of that set.

c.       Repeat steps a & b for all four night / low light “scenes”

d.      A slide that contains small photo images of each of the bracketed photos for either your “ghost” or your white outline photo

e.      A slide that contains your best “ghost” or white outline image.

3.        Two  9" X 6"  photos as follows: .....Select the best two of all of your night/low-light images and make one 9" x 6"  photo quality print of each of the two images.  

4.         One  9" X 6"  photo as follows: .....Select the best of your ghost or white outline images and make one 9" x 6"  photo quality print of that image. (Ghost image instructions are on pgs 5-6 of this hand-out sheet.  White outline instructions are on pgs 7-8.)

5.        (*WHEN YOU SUBMIT YOUR NIGHT PHOTO UNIT PROJECT SET ... remember to submit all parts of the unit at the same time for grading. )

Take Four different sets of photos as explained below – one set of five photos for each of four different scenes.

Directions:  (To produce a good photograph with low light and/or night conditions)

A.  Practice these steps at home before you go to the place where you want to take your photograph(s)

1.)    Set up camera and tripod 

2.)    Practice using your self timer setting 

3.)    Set ISO setting to ISO 400 

4.)    Set camera to Manual, shutter speed or  night landscape mode   

5.)    Practice using the +EV and –EV settings

B.     Select an appropriate place for night or low light photographs.  Set up tripod and mount the camera; make sure that camera is level with the plane of the horizon.

C.     Turn your camera on.

D.     Set camera ISO to 400

E.      Turn the self-timer on. (A little clock symbol should appear.) You need to use the self-timer setting because you don’t have a cable release.   The self-timer will delay the exposure a few seconds, but it will also help to keep your photos sharp.

F.      Make sure your flash is turned off.  (The flash symbol should be in a circle with a diagonal line through it)

G.     Set the camera to either Manual mode, shutter seed mode – or if your camera doesn’t have either of these settings, choose the night landscape scene / mode (DO NOT CHOOSE NIGHT PORTRAIT MODE!!! – That setting will trigger the flash and you don’t use a flash for these night photos.)

1.       If you are using manual mode –set the aperture to f/8 and leave it on that setting,  choose the slowest shutter speed your camera can use.(Usually digital cameras can be set to at least 8 seconds or longer.  8 seconds would appear as 8”  If you only see 8 that means 1/8th second ---15 seconds would appear as 15” If you only see 15 that means 1/15th second, etc.

2.       If you are using the shutter speed mode – choose the slowest shutter speed your camera can use.(Usually digital cameras can be set to at least 8 seconds or longer.  8 seconds would appear as 8”  If you only see 8 that means 1/8th second ---15 seconds would appear as 15” If you only see 15 that means 1/15th second, etc.

3.       If you are using the night landscape scene mode – turn your camera to that setting

H.     Compose your photo & Focus carefully (use manual focus settings if necessary)

I.         Take a set of bracketed* exposures as follows:

1  Take one picture at EV = -2

2.  Take one picture at EV = -1

3.  Take one picture at EV = 0

4.  Take one picture at EV = +1

5.  Take one picture at EV = +2

J.  Pack up camera, & tripod carefully

(If weather is very cold, place camera in plastic bag first to prevent condensation problems)

Using a digital camera* to create Ghost-like Images ...

*For this type of photograph, your camera should have controls that you can use to set the shutter speed manually to specific shutter speeds.  Ideally, you should be able to select a shutter speed at least 8 seconds long. (Longer times work even better.)

A.      Turn your camera on.

B.      Set camera ISO to 400

C.     Turn the self-timer on. (A little clock symbol should appear.) You need to use the self-timer setting because you don’t have a cable release.   The self-timer will delay the exposure a few seconds, but it will also help to keep your photos sharp.

D.     Make sure your flash is turned off.  (The flash symbol should be in a circle with a diagonal line through it)

E.     Set the camera to either Manual mode or shutter seed mode – or if your camera doesn’t have either of these settings, choose the night landscape scene / mode (DO NOT CHOOSE NIGHT PORTRAIT MODE!!! – That setting will trigger the flash and you don’t use a flash for these night photos.)

1.      If you are using manual mode –set the aperture to f/8 and leave it on that setting,  then choose the slowest shutter speed your camera can use.  (Usually digital cameras can be set to at least 8 seconds or longer.  8 seconds would appear as 8”  If you only see 8 that means 1/8th second ---15 seconds would appear as 15” If you only see 15 that means 1/15th second, etc.

2.      If you are using the shutter speed mode – choose the slowest shutter speed your camera can use.(Usually digital cameras can be set to at least 8 seconds or longer.  8 seconds would appear as 8”  If you only see 8 that means 1/8th second ---15 seconds would appear as 15” If you only see 15 that means 1/15th second, etc.

3.      If you are using the night landscape scene mode – turn your camera to that setting

F.  Attach your camera to a steady tripod

1.       With the room lights on, focus on your subject (press camera shutter down ˝ way)

2.      Turn the room lights off.

3.      Press camera shutter button down – since your camera is set on self-timer, you will have a few seconds before the exposure actually begins.

Use a flashlight as your light source.  Turn the flashlight on and point it at your subject.  Keep it on for about 3 seconds.

Turn your flashlight off and have your subject move to the second “ghostly” position (take a step to one side.)

Turn the flashlight on again for about 3 seconds and then turn it off.

(Each time you turn the flashlight on you change the silver particles on your film and create a partial image.  If you turn the flashlight on three times, you form three “ghost” images on your print.)

The final stage is to create a background image.  This is the tricky part because you need enough light energy to make the scene at least twice as intense (solid looking) as any of the “ghosts” but if you give the room background too much light energy the ghosts will disappear entirely.  Just flipping on the  room’s light switch up and down (leaving the lights on for only a fraction of a second) usually works pretty well.  For outdoor scenes you might try flipping a car's headlights on & off again instead of room lights.

After you have added the room exposure to the ghost exposures (with the room now dark again) go back to the camera and play back your image to see if the ghosts are visible or if the room light overpowered the ghost light.. 

If these settings worked... repeat the process a few more times to create a bracketed set of images.
If these settings did not work...
..............If you ran out of time and could not make a room exposure... Try setting your camera to a longer shutter speed or try taking only one ghost image.
...............If the room image was too bright compared to the ghost image  (the room appeared but you can't see the ghosts)... Repeat steps 1-5, but this time instead of flashing the room lights on use only the flashlight and move it around to illuminate the different parts of the room nearest the ghost(s).
 

Using a digital camera to create a Light Rim* Photo

(*white line light outline)

A.      Turn your camera on.

B.      Set camera ISO to 400

C.     Turn the self-timer on. (A little clock symbol should appear.) You need to use the self-timer setting because you don’t have a cable release.   The self-timer will delay the exposure a few seconds, but it will also help to keep your photos sharp.

D.     Make sure your flash is turned off.  (The flash symbol should be in a circle with a diagonal line through it)

E.     Set the camera to either Manual mode, shutter seed mode – or if your camera doesn’t have either of these settings, choose the night landscape scene / mode (DO NOT CHOOSE NIGHT PORTRAIT MODE!!! – That setting will trigger the flash and you don’t use a flash for these night photos.)

1.      If you are using manual mode –set the aperture to f/8 and leave it on that setting,  choose the slowest shutter speed your camera can use.(Usually digital cameras can be set to at least 8 seconds or longer.  8 seconds would appear as 8”  If you only see 8 that means 1/8th second ---15 seconds would appear as 15” If you only see 15 that means 1/15th second, etc.

2.      If you are using the shutter speed mode – choose the slowest shutter speed your camera can use.(Usually digital cameras can be set to at least 8 seconds or longer.  8 seconds would appear as 8”  If you only see 8 that means 1/8th second ---15 seconds would appear as 15” If you only see 15 that means 1/15th second, etc.

3.      If you are using the night landscape scene mode – turn your camera to that setting

F.  Attach your camera to a steady tripod

1.       With the room lights on, focus on your subject (press camera shutter down ˝ way)

2.      Turn the room lights off.

3.      Press camera shutter button down – since your camera is set on self-timer, you will have a few seconds before the exposure actually begins.

4.      Walk behind your subject, face the flashlight toward the camera lens and turn it on.

5.      Move the flashlight at a slow, steady rate along the outline edge of your subject (as though you were tracing the outline of your subject using a flashlight instead of a pencil).

6.      When you have traced then entire outline, turn your flashlight off.

7.      Play back the image to make sure that your settings are working correctly and to see if you are moving your flashlight quickly enough to record the entire image.

8.      Repeat steps 1-7  again, but this time move the flashlight more quickly along the edge of your subject.

9.      Repeat steps 6 – 12 again, but this time move the flashlight as slowly as you can along the edge of your subject.


Capturing Action

·         As a part of this unit, students are shown a video that provides specific instructions for how to capture the true peak of physical action along with many examples of this type of photograph. 

·         At the beginning of this unit the teacher explains and demonstrates exactly how to set and use flash units to obtain high quality "freeze action" photos.  As a part of this explanation & demonstration, each student is given a flash unit to use in class so that he or she can follow along as the teacher explains each step and setting, and for additional "hands-on" practice afterward.

·         It is not required, but it is strongly recommended  that a flash unit be used to capture the peak of physical action for at least 1/2 of the pictures taken for this assignment  (click here to see a copy of the instructions given in class for using flash units. )

  •   As a part of this "action" unit, the teacher also explains a method used to “freeze” action outdoors on a bright sunny day by using a very fast shutter speed.  For this type of photograph your camera’s shutter speed must be at least 1/250th second for most types of human or animal action and 1/500th second for action on wheels (without a motor). 

  • Students may elect to use either a film camera or their own digital camera for this assignment.  (A disposable camera may be used if no other option is available, but is not really recommended for best results.)

o       If you are using a film camera ...  

  • It is necessary for you to keep records of frame #, shutter speed, aperture, and distance information on a log sheet. Log sheets are provided for your use.

  •  On one roll of film, take a set of 24-25 photos as follows:
     Take a set of 20 photographs in which you capture the peak of physical action

  • If you are using a Minolta camera…

1.      set your camera’s shutter speed dial to “AUTO,” then point the camera toward the action taking place. 

2.      Look in the viewfinder to see the actual shutter speed the camera’s meter is selecting for that scene. 

3.      IF that shutter speed is the correct one, go ahead and take the picture. 

4.      If the shutter speed is not fast enough, turn your camera’s aperture ring to select a lower number.  This will open up the aperture and let more light into the camera. 

5.      Look in the viewfinder and check the shutter speed again.  IF that shutter speed is the correct one, go ahead and take the picture

6.      Repeat steps 4-5 until your shutter speed is fast enough to freeze the action.

  • If you are using a Kalimar camera…

1.      set your camera’s shutter speed dial to either 1/250th second (for human action) or 1/500th (for action on non-motorized wheels)second then point the camera toward the action taking place. 

2.      Look in the viewfinder to see which color light diode is indicated.

3.      IF you see a green light, go ahead and take the picture. 

4.      If you see a yellow light you do not have enough light energy to form an image on the film.  Turn your camera’s aperture ring to select a lower number.  This will open up the aperture and let more light into the camera. 

5.      If you see a red light you have too much light energy & the image on the film will be too dense.  Turn your camera’s aperture ring to select a higher number.  This will open up the aperture and let more light into the camera. 

6.      Look in the viewfinder and check the color of the light diode.  IF you see a green light now, go ahead and take the picture

7.      Repeat steps 4-5 until your shutter speed is fast enough to freeze the action.

  • Develop the film using instructions given in class.

  • Allow the processed negatives to dry, then cut the strip into sets of 5 frames and store the negatives in an archival storage page (available in class).

  • Use the instructions given in class to scan all of your "peak of physical action" negatives.

  • Set the output/print size setting on your negative scanner to 8 x 10" so that the resolution setting will be high enough to produce a fine quality image.

  •  If you are using a digital camera...

  • Take a set of 20 photographs in which you capture the peak of physical action.

  • When you have finished taking all of the assigned photos, submit the CD rom disk or media card that has your original image files to the teacher so that she can transfer them to your HS North student computer documents folder.  (All media cards and/or CD rom disks will be returned to the student immediately after the files have been transferred.)

·         Use the instructions given in class to make sure that your images are "grayscale."

  • (All)  Use Adobe Photoshop and the instructions given in class to make a contact sheet that shows all of your action pictures.
  • (All)  Use Microsoft PowerPoint to create a PowerPoint slideshow of your images for a class critique session.
  • (All)  Select the best two of your  "peak of physical action" images.
  • (All) Use Adobe Photoshop and the instructions given in class to "optimize" each of the two images that you selected.
  • (All)  Use instructions given in class to set the printer settings and print one 6 x 9" or larger print of each image.
  • (All)  Submit your camera log sheet, your negatives or digital files, your contact sheet and your two prints to the teacher for grading.

Panning
.........Students will be escorted outside where they will take turns as "models" running or jogging and as photographers capturing the action.
(click here to see instructions for taking panning photographs.)


Using Window Light
Part I - Window Light

justincc.jpg (28056 bytes)       Photo By Justin Cavadas-CabeloSome of the world’s best photographs have been taken using available light.

Assignment:  Students may elect to use either a digital or film camera.  Students will submit a set of 10 window light photos on a contact sheet.  In addition, students will make a high quality 8x10" black & white print of the best window light image for inclusion in their portfolio.  For most predictable results, photos of still-life objects are recommended.

The method described below involves an indoor set-up; however, the same principles can be used indoors or outdoors.

-- For each photo that you take it is advisable that you record
FRAME #, APERTURE, and ACTUAL SHUTTER SPEED on a photo log.

  • 1.  A tripod and cable release are very useful tools for this type of photography, but if you do not have access to these tools you can still produce reasonably sharp available light photographs if you use a digital camera or a handheld film camera with a standard (50mm) lens, brace yourself against a solid support, and adjust your camera settings so that your actual shutter speed will be at least ...

1/30th second or faster for still objects,
1/60th second or faster for portraits of people, and
1/125th second or faster for pictures of an animal (or animals).

  • 2.  Adjust your camera so that it is level and at an appropriate height.
  • 3. Use your camera’s built-in metering system to determine your best starting point.  (For Minolta cameras, for example, begin by turning the shutter speed selector dial until the mode readout window says "AUTO")
  • 4. Position your subject (a person, animal, object, etc.) beside a window and facing your camera (so that diffused sunlight is shining directly on one side of your subject & your camera is pointed toward your subject) .
  • CORRECT diagram.gif (2781 bytes)

  • 5. DO NOT place your subject between the camera and the window and do not face your camera directly toward the window. This would create a ‘back-lighting’ effect (when the camera’s meter ‘reads’ the light outside the window instead of the light that is reflected from your subject) and your subject would be underexposed in your picture (it would appear as a silhouette)
  • diagrm2.gif (3510 bytes)

  • 6. (For film cameras) Begin with an aperture opening of f/5.6 or larger*, being careful to maintain a shutter speed that is appropriate to your subject (see step # 3 above for suggested shutter speeds). With these settings you will have a relatively small depth of field (background - blurry & ‘simplified’).
  • 7. Compose and focus carefully and then press the shutter release button gently.
  • 8. Take a moment to write down your frame number, actual shutter speed, and aperture setting on a photo log.
  • 9. (For film cameras) Turn the shutter speed selector dial until it is at the same number as your actual shutter speed in step #8 above (the speed shown by your camera’s automatic metering system).
  • 10. (For film cameras) "Bracket" by taking four more photos of your subject at this same shutter speed setting
          but for the 2nd second photograph --
              change the aperture to the f/stop 2 stops smaller* than your first setting
         for the 3rd photograph --
              change the aperture to the next f/stop smaller* than your first setting
         for the 4th photograph --
              change the aperture to the next f/stop larger* than your first setting
         for the 5th photograph --
              change the aperture to the f/stop 2 stops larger* than your first setting
  • ____________________

    * Remember - what we refer to as f/stop numbers are not integers, but fractions:

    f (focal length)
    actual diameter of the lens opening

    therefore, a large f/stop number, like f/16 or f/22 refers to a small lens opening
    while a small f/stop number, like f/1.7 or f/2 refers to a large lens opening.

     

    Examples of Student Existing Light Photographs

    zglinski.jpg (23849 bytes)   Photo by Kristen Zglinki         justincc.jpg (28056 bytes)       Photo By Justin Cavadas-Cabelo

    fields.jpg (15000 bytes)   Photo by Adrienne Fields      rotondo.jpg (23831 bytes)      Photo by Lois Ann Rotondo

    (To see a larger view of the student photographs above, just click on the thumbnail image. 
    To return to this page again just click your browser's 'back' button.)

    • Use Adobe Photoshop and the instructions given in class to make a contact sheet that shows all of your window light pictures.
    • Use Microsoft PowerPoint to create a PowerPoint slideshow of your images for a class critique session.
    • Select the best two of your window light images.
      • Use Adobe Photoshop and the instructions given in class to "optimize" each of the two images that you selected.
      • Use instructions given in class to set the printer settings and print one 6 x 9" or larger print of each image.
    • Submit your digital files &/or negatives, your contact sheet, your two prints and any camera log sheets  to the teacher for grading.

    Special Effects Photo Projects

    Special Effects Photography  Students will be required to submit several special effects type photos.
    (Click on a link to see details for that project.)

    Digital Montage Photo Project

    Digital Montage

    .................

    For this unit all photos will be taken as a homework assignment

    • each student will work individually /  independently
    • each student will take the required photos either during class time or after school or on week-ends. 
    • each student must plan so that he / she will be able to complete and submit his or her work on time

         Each individual student must complete and submit the following parts of the project:

    1.  Pre-plan your idea in your mind &/or sketch it on paper.

    2.  Use a digital camera and a copy stand light set up to take three sharp, well lighted, and finely detailed photos of a small product.

    3.  Use the same digital camera to take three pictures of a person.  The person should be posing in a position that you can later combine with your product to create a convincing montage photo.  If you photograph the person against a plain white or a plain black background you will have an easier time “copying” and “pasting” later.

    4.  Bring your digital picture disk to your computer and open all of the images in Adobe PhotoShop.

    5.  Use “File” >  “Save As” command to copy your images onto your CD rom disk (or your on-line computer folder if you have room there) and save the copies.  Remove the original digital disk from the computer and return it to the teacher.  You should work with your copies.

    6.  Select your best product photo and your best person photo and close the other ones.

    7.  Begin with the person photo.

    • Use the “magic wand” selection tool to select the background area of the photo.
      (The “marching ants” should surround the background area.)

    • Click the right-side quick mask circle to check the selection area. (Use the paintbrush tool and the eraser tool to make sure that the entire background area is selected.)

    • Click on the left-side quick mask circle to exit quick mask and change the selection indicator fro a color back to the “marching ants.”

    • Go to the “Select” column and choose “Inverse” (because you don’t really want the background – you really want to select the area that contains the person.)

    • Go to “Edit” > “Copy”  (or Ctrl key plus C key)

    • Go to “Layer” > “New” > “Layer” (this will produce a blank transparent layer.)

    • Go to “edit” > “Paste” (or Ctrl key plus V key) – This will paste your person onto the new blank transparent layer. 

    • Save your file using “File” > “Save As” – and give your file an appropriate new name.  Make sure you save it as a .psd (PhotoShop) type file so that your layers will be saved and available for future use.

    8.  Now you are ready to work with your product photo.

    • Drag the person layer from the person photo to the product photo.  (This should paste a new layer onto your product photo and the person image should appear near the product.)

    • Check to make sure that you have enough room for the person to fit according to your design idea.

    • If you do have enough room skip down to step E in this section.

    • If you do not have enough room, make sure the person layer is highlighted in the layers box of your product photo and go to “Layer” > “Delete Layer” to remove the person.

    1. Go to “Image” > “Image Size” to check the size of your original product photo.

    2. Go to “File” > “New” and create a new image box that is about two inches wider and two inches taller than your original image.  You can make these dimensions even larger if necessary. 

    • Make sure that the “contents” selection is “transparent”

    • Make sure that the “mode” selection is RGB

       c.  After your new blank image opens up,

    • click on your product photo,

    • Go to “edit” > “copy” (or use Ctrl + the C key)

    •  Click on your blank image to make it the active one

    • Go to “edit” > “paste” (or use Ctrl + the V key)

    • This will paste the product photo into the new file space.  Use the arrow key to drag it into position.

    • Click the rectangular marquee tool to make it active.  Click on the side of the product photo that you need to add extra space to & “drag” a rectangle to select it for copying.  Try to select an area that has background color but none of the actual product in it.

    • Go to “edit” > “copy” (or use Ctrl + the C key)

    • Go to “edit” > “paste” (or use Ctrl + the V key)

    • Use the arrow tool to move the copied section into position.

    •  Go to “edit” > “transform” > “flip horizontal” to make the section blend in better.  (If you are adding a section to the top or bottom instead of to one side use “flip vertical” instead of “flip horizontal.”)

    • Repeat the last few steps as many times as necessary until you have enough space to add your person image.

    ...d.  Go to “Layer” > “Flatten Image” to combine all of your new background pieces with your product image.

    9.  Click on your person photo to make it the active one.

    • Make sure that the layers box is showing.

    • Click on the layer that has the person with all the edges smoothed & a transparent background

    • Hold your left mouse button down and drag that layer over your product photo image (or your expanded product photo image).

    • Use the arrow tool to move your person into the correct position.

    • Go to “edit” > “transform” >  “scale”

      • Hold down the shift key to keep your person image in proportion. 

      • Click the left mouse button down on one corner of the scaling box and hold both buttons down while you drag the corner inward or outward to re-size your person image.  Double click anywhere inside the scale box to make the box disappear. 

      • Release the mouse button first and then the shift button

    • .Go to “image” > “adjust” > “levels” to adjust the levels of the person layer to make it match the product photo layer.

    10.  Next add realism by adding a shadow for your person that mimics the shadow cast by your product.

    • Go to “layer” > “duplicate layer” (call your new layer “shadow”)

    • Go to “edit” > “transform” > rotate and rotate the new shadow layer until it falls at the same angle as the other shadows in the picture.  Double click anywhere inside the rotate box to make the box disappear.

    • Go to “edit” > “transform” > “distort” and move the little pull/push boxes around the edges of the distort box until the shadow seems to look “normal.”  Double click anywhere inside the distort box to make the box disappear.

    11.  Save your file using “File” > “Save As” – and give your file an appropriate new name.  Make sure you save it as a .psd (PhotoShop) type file so that your layers will be saved and available for future use.
     

    12.  Crop your image to the frame shape you want to use for your ad.
     

    13.  Re-size your image for a good print out.

    • Go to “Image” > “Image Size”

    • Change the resolution from 72 pixels per inch to 300 pixels per inch.

    • Change the longest side of the image to 7 inches.

    14.  Go to “Layer” > “Flatten Image”
     

    15.  Save your file again. 

    • Give it a new file name such as “product montage – final.”

    • This time in the Save as box make sure that  .jpg  is selected.

    (This will save your image in a format that can be used in other programs such as Microsoft Word.)

     

    Poem Montage Poster Project

    A.     Students begin this project by selecting a favorite poem, 3-5 lines from some favorite song lyrics or quote from a favorite short essay.

    B.     Students take a set of photographs that will be collaged together into a photo montage that will illustrate the feelings created by the poem, lyrics or quote.  (Choose any appropriate subject matter that, when combined with a background scene and other objects, will establish the same mood or feelings as the written words.)  If necessary take photos of your subject(s)  posed in several key positions.  Choose a background scene that will be an imaginative and creative new environment for your subject.

    C.     Develop & scan your film, or transfer your digital images to your photo class USB.

    D.     Open all the images in Adobe PhotoShop.

    1.      Use the Lasso tool and draw an outline around the first object you want to use.

    2.      Go to "edit" then to "copy" (or press "Ctrl" + C)

    3.      Click your left mouse button down on the other (background scene) photo and
    go to "edit" then to "paste" ( or press "Ctrl" + V)

    4.      If you have more than one subject or pose to add to the scene, repeat steps 1-3 for each of your subjects or poses.

    5.      If necessary, go to "edit" then to "transform" then to "scale" and adjust the size of the image you have just inserted into the scene.  (Remember to hold down the shift key while you drag the square "handles" in the corners of the transform scale box inward or outward to make the image larger or smaller.)

    6.      Adjust the opacity of the layer until it looks natural.

    7.      Move the new subjects around in the scene until the composition looks natural and yet has strong impact.

    8.      Your teacher will review ways that you can add realistic looking shadows and other ways to make your illusion look more convincing.

    Comic Sequence

    A.  Take a series of photos that tell a story that could be converted into a comic strip.  (You must have at least three different photos.)

    B.  Open Photoshop

    1)      Open the photos you wish to convert into a comic strip sequence

    2)      For each photo

    a)      > Layer > Duplicate Layer

    b)      >Adjustments > Curves

    i.         adjust the curves control  to make the photo look as good as you can make it look

    ii.       click OK

    c)      > Layer > Duplicate Layer

    d)      >Filters

    i.         > (choose the filter you want to use… a good choice is Artistic > Poster Edges)

    ii.       Adjust edge thickness, edge intensity and posterization sliders until the image looks the way you want it to look, then click OK

    e)      > Layers > Flatten Image (near bottom of list)

    f)       > File > Save AS >

    i.         Next to FORMAT:  choose JPEG

    ii.       Next to File Name: give your image a new name and add .jpg at the end of the new name

    iii.      Click SAVE

    Open MS Word

    1.       File > Page Setup >

    a.       Margins:  change the top and bottom margins to 0.75” and change the left and right margins to 0.75”

    b.       Change the orientation to “Landscape”

    c.       Click OK

    2.       Insert > Picture > From File (scroll to the place where your photo has been saved)

    3.       Right Click on the picture > Format Picture

    a.       > click on the size tab at the top of the box

    b.       > set the width to 4.5”

    c.       (i -  iv = optional advanced formatting – follow these steps if you want to overlap pictures)

                                                                   i. click on the Layout tab on the top of the box

                                                                 ii.  choose “Tight” and then click on the “advanced” button

                                                                iii.  click on the “text wrapping” tab and choose “both sides”

                                                               iv.   click OK

    d.       >click OK

    4.       If the Drawing Toolbar is not showing at the bottom of the screen…

    d.        go to View > Toolbars and click Drawing

    5.       When you have a Drawing Toolbar – click on AutoShapes

     .        Choose Callouts and select the callout shape you want

    a.       Click on your picture where you want the callout box to appear, hold your mouse button down and drag out a callout shape.

    b.       Type in what you want your character to say.

    c.       Look for the yellow dot at the tip of the pointer arrow.  Click and hold on the yellow dot and drag it to where you want the end of the pointer arrow to be.

    6.       Hot the spacebar a few times to put a little space between your first image “frame” and the next one.

    7.       Repeat steps 2-5

    8.       After you have inserted your second photo and added call-outs &/or captions, press the enter key to move to the second line.

    9.       Repeat steps 2-6 to add a third frame

    10.   Repeat steps 2-5 to add a fourth frame

    11.   Depending on the size and orientation of each image you should have up to 4 frames per page.

    12.   Save your files

    13.   When you are ready to print your files – test print them by sending them to the 8150 (black & white) printer. 

    14.   After you have your black & white test pages, ask the teacher for help printing your color pages.

    15.   Submit your work for grading.

    Dual Image Photo (In the style of the large kinesthetic / polymorphic paintings of  Yaacov Agam)

     (Note:  While you are working on this project be sure to save your work as Photoshop (.psd) type files so that you will be able to save all of the layers you need to create.)

    1.  Choose a subject that is designed to be combined with another scene or object and take 3-4 photographs of that subject. 

    2.  Choose a different “background” scene that will provide an interesting contrast or comparison with your first image..

    3.  Develop & scan your film, or transfer your digital images to your photo class CD rom disk.

    4.   Open PhotoShop

    5.   Go to Edit > Preferences > Guides, Grids, Slices & Count

    q       In the Grid section:  Guideline every: 1 inch, Subdivisions: 1, choose a color that will stand out from the image

    q       Click OK

    6.   Open both images in Adobe PhotoShop.

    a)  Make both images exactly the same size (crop if necessary).

    d)  For each image - Go to View > Extras > Show >Grid

    7.  Bring your first image to the front

    a)      go  to Image > Canvas Size

    q       move the center anchor block one block to the left

    q       Double the width of your original image size and type in the new width numbers

    q       Click “OK” (You should see your picture with a white grid of equal size right beside it.)

    8.  Use the Marquee tool to draw an outline around any part of your image that overlaps the white space but is less than one inch wide and delete that part of the image.

    9.  Use the marquee tool to select the one inch “column”/ section of your image that is closest to the white space,

    a)      copy that section (press the Ctrl key plus the C key),

    b)      cut it out (press the Ctrl key plus the X key),

    c)      paste it into the last one inch column (farthest right) of the white space you created in step 5 above.

    10.  Go back to the background layer to make it the active layer

    a)  Use the marquee tool to select the one inch “column”/ section of your image that was directly to the left of the column you selected in step 6 above, (this section should now be closest to the white space.)

    b)  copy that section (press the Ctrl key plus the C key),

    c)  cut it out (press the Ctrl key plus the X key),

    d)  leave a one inch column blank, and then paste your new section into the column that is one inch AWAY from the last section you just copied and pasted (in step 6 above).

    11     Repeat the instructions in steps 9 and 10 above until you have your entire image split up into one inch columns separated by one inch white spaces, being sure to place each section correctly so that the image will be re-assembled in the correct sequence.

    12     Repeat steps 7-10, this time using your second image.

    13     After you have divided up both photos… in your second image,

    a)      click on the background layer to make it active, double click to rename the layer “Layer 0” then delete the layer.

    b)      Select all the remaining layers (highlight all of them)

    c)      Go to Layer > Merge visible

    or go to Layer >Group Layers (or press Control + G)

    12. This next part seems tricky, but is really the easiest thing so far…

    a)      arrange your images so that the second image is on top, but the first one is also clearly visible.

    b)      Click on the layers group that you created in step 11-c above and “drag” the layers group over to the first image.

    c)      You should now see all of your layer slices appear as a set on top of your first image.

    d)      Use the move (arrow) tool to move them into precise position.

    14.   Go to Layer > Flatten Image

    15.   Go to Image > Image size and in the document size section choose a width of 10.5 for horizontal pictures or a height of 10.5 for vertical pictures.

    16.   Print your image.

    17.   Using sharp creases, fold your image using mountain/valley (fan) folds.  (If necessary, use a ruler to help you make straight, sharp creases.)

    18.   Physically paste your image onto a support card or mat.

    Imaginative Alphabet

    .....CLICK HERE to see an example of an imaginative alphabet created by professional photographer Abba Richmann.
    Alphabet

    For this unit all photos will be taken as a homework assignment

    • each student will work individually /  independently
    • each student will take the required photos after school or on week-ends. 
    • each student must plan so that he / she will be able to complete and submit his or her work on time

    Each individual student must complete and submit the following parts of the project:

    1.  Take a set of at least 26 photographs as follows:   

    • You may use any kind of camera to complete this project

    • Each photograph should feature an object shape that looks like one letter of the alphabet. 

    • You should fill the frame with the object shape

    • Your image should be as sharp as possible

    • Your tonal range should be good enough to reveal details in both the bright and dark areas.

    2.    Keep a photographic log in which you record the following information:   frame #,  shutter speed setting,  & aperture setting 

    3a.    If you are using a 35mm film camera...

    When you have finished taking all of the assigned photos...

    • Remove your film from your camera, use a changing bag to load it into a light safe developing tank

    • develop and dry the film according to instructions given in class. 

    • Cut your negatives in sets of 5 frames, insert the negative strips into an archival storage page,

    • label the page (with your name, class period number, and assignment title) and put it into your photography notebook.

    • Scan one negative for each of the 26 letters of the alphabet.

    • (Use a scanner that is designed for scanning negatives.  You may use the scanners in the photography classroom or, if you have a scanner at home that is capable of scanning negatives and transparencies, you may do your scanning at home and save the files onto a CD rom disk.) 

    • click here to go to Scanning Negatives - Instructions / Log Sheet  

    • Save each image file using a resolution of 300 d.p.i. and a print size of  approximately 6x4 inches.

    3b.    If you are using a disposable camera...

    When you have finished taking all of the assigned photos...

    • Bring your camera to a processing enter to have your film developed.

    • bring the processed negatives to class. 

    • insert the negative strips into an archival storage page,

    • label the page (with your name, class period number, and assignment title) and put it into your photography notebook.

    • Scan one negative for each of the 26 letters of the alphabet.

    • (Use a scanner that is designed for scanning negatives.  You may use the scanners in the photography classroom or, if you have a scanner at home that is capable of scanning negatives and transparencies, you may do your scanning at home and save the files onto a CD rom disk.) 

    • click here to go to Scanning Negatives - Instructions / Log Sheet  

    • Save each image file using a resolution of 300 d.p.i. and a print size of  approximately 6x4 inches.

     

    3c.    If you are using a digital camera...

    When you have finished taking all of the assigned photos...

    • Ask the teacher transfer the digital files from your camera's media card to your CD rom disk. (If you are working at home you may transfer the files yourself.)

     

    4.  Use PhotoShop to make your images look the very best they can possibly look.  (Work carefully!  The goal is 10 zone quality prints with strong composition and impact.  You are trying to produce images with quality that stands out immediately.)

     

    5.  Save each image as its letter name (A.jpg, B.jpg, C.jpg, etc.) into a folder called "alphabet."

    6.  Create an enlarged contact sheet that displays all 26 letters.  (Be sure that the letters appear in alphabetical order!!!)

     

    7.   When your alphabet is complete - use the letters to "spell out" a favorite phrase or quotation.

    8.   Submit your alphabet contact sheet, quote print and any digital files, negatives, and camera logs to the teacher for grading.

    Constructed Relief
    - Taking photos into the 3rd dimension physically

    • Constructed Relief - To meet this requirement submit one constructed relief with at least three distinct "planes."  (The background would be considered to be one plane, objects in the middle ground area would identify the next planes and the nearest foreground object would be the top plane.)

    Stereo Photography - 3-D Photo Effect
    Taking photos into the 3rd dimension visually

    .........Students may elect to complete either of the following projects to complete this requirement:  (Click on a project name to go to the project description & "how-to" page.)

    • Stereo Pairs - To meet this requirement submit fifteen stereo pairs.

    • Stereo Anaglyph - To meet this requirement submit four stereo anaglyphs.

    David Hockney Style "Cubist" Collage (Stitched Panorama)

    For this unit all photos will be taken as a homework assignment

    • each student will work individually - independently
    • after school or on week-ends. 
    • each student must plan so that he / she will be able to complete and submit his or her work on time

    Each individual student must complete and submit the following parts of the project:

    1. Take a set of approximately 20-24 photographs of a single outdoor scenic object as follows:

      • Imagine a grid with three rows and 6-8 columns over the object

      • Take a one photo for each rectangle of your imaginary grid

      • Try to take the photos in order:   left-to-right, bottom row of your imaginary grid first, then middle row, then top row

      • Take each photo in such a way that it slightly overlaps the one before it.

    2. If you are using a 35mm film camera...

    3. ~ Keep a photographic log in which you record the following information:   
      ....... 
      frame #,  shutter speed setting,  & aperture setting 

      ~ When you have finished taking all of the assigned photos...

      • Remove your film from your camera, use a changing bag to load it into a light safe developing tank

      • develop and dry the film according to instructions given in class. 

      • Cut your negatives in sets of 5 frames, insert the negative strips into an archival storage page,

      • label the page (with your name, class period number, and assignment title) and put it into your photography notebook.

      • Scan all of your negatives..

      • (Use a scanner that is designed for scanning negatives.  You may use the scanners in the photography classroom or, if you have a scanner at home that is capable of scanning negatives and transparencies, you may do your scanning at home and save the files onto a CD rom disk.) 

      • click here to go to Scanning Negatives - Instructions / Log Sheet 

      • Save each image file using a resolution of 300 d.p.i. and a print size of  6x4 inches.

      If you are using a disposable camera...

      When you have finished taking all of the assigned photos...

      • Bring your camera to a processing enter to have your film developed.

      • bring the processed negatives to class. 

      • insert the negative strips into an archival storage page,

      • label the page (with your name, class period number, and assignment title) and put it into your photography notebook.

      • Scan all of your negatives.

      • (Use a scanner that is designed for scanning negatives.  You may use the scanners in the photography classroom or, if you have a scanner at home that is capable of scanning negatives and transparencies, you may do your scanning at home and save the files onto a CD rom disk.) 

      • click here to go to Scanning Negatives - Instructions / Log Sheet 

      • Save each image file using a resolution of 300 d.p.i. and a print size of  6x4 inches.

      If you are using a digital camera...

      When you have finished taking all of the assigned photos...

      • Ask the teacher transfer the digital files from your camera's media card to your CD rom disk. (If you are working at home you may transfer the files yourself.)

    1. Use PhotoShop to make your images look the very best they can possibly look.  (Work carefully!  The goal is 10 zone quality prints with strong composition and impact.  You are trying to produce images with quality that stands out immediately.) 

    2. Print one 4x6" print of each of your negatives (You can accomplish this quickly by saving all of your images into one folder and then use the "Contact Sheet" command in PhotoShop.  Set up the contact sheet to have two columns and two rows per sheet.  This will place four photos per page and each photo will be approximately 4 x 5 inches in size.)

    3. Overlap and assemble the individual prints into an enlarged version of your original outdoor scenic object.

    4. Use a glue stick or dry mount process to attach your prints to an appropriate background sheet of paper.

    5. Submit your camera log, your negatives, you computer log sheets, and your panoramic image to the teacher for grading.

     


    Product Photography

    ........................

      For this Product Photo unit most photos will be taken during the class period.  Students may also elect to take photos at home.

      • Lighting set-ups and all required Photoshop techniques will be demonstrated by the teacher.
      • Students will work independently to complete all parts of the assignment.

     ...1.  Use digital cameras and the instructions given in class and on the product lighting hand-out sheets to take two black outline and two white outline photographs of each of four different glassware objects.  

    • Bring your digital files to your computer and open all of the images in Adobe PhotoShop.  

    2.  Select the best / sharpest photo for each category & for each object.  Use PhotoShop levels &/or curves and other controls and settings to make your images look the very best they can possibly look.  (Work carefully!  The goal is 10 zone quality prints with strong composition and impact.  You are trying to produce images with quality that stands out immediately.)

    3.  Rotate and crop the images if necessary, then go to Image > Image Size, and in the "print size" section of the box make sure that the resolution is 300 pixels per inch and that the longest side is approximately 7 inches and the shortest side is no more than 4.9 inches.

     

    4.  Create a new final photo project page document and place two pictures on the new document page space.   (Click here for instructions.)   Each new document should contain one black outline and one white outline photo of the same object.  

     

    5.  Use the "T" (text) tool to type your name onto the photo print page.  

     

    6.  When you are ready to make your actual print-outs, ask the teacher to check your settings, then print each page, submit your work for grading and, when it is returned to you, keep it in your notebook "photo gallery" section.

    7.  Back up your image files onto your CD using the method you learned in class.


    Outdoor Scenic Photographs

    Outdoor Scenic - Depth of Field / Composition

    For this unit all photos will be taken as a homework assignment

    • each student will work individually /  independently
    • each student will take the required photos after school or on week-ends. 
    • each student must plan so that he / she will be able to complete and submit his or her work on time

    Each individual student must complete and submit the following parts of the project:

    1. Take four photographs of each of the following three outdoor scenic photo types:

    Large Depth of Field:  Select a scene in which you have objects that are visually interesting in the foreground (6-7 feet away), middle ground (10-15 feet away) and background (20 or more feet away) and then adjust your camera aperture so that you have a large depth of field
    (Your main subject and your background should both be in sharp focus.)
    f/11, f/16, f/22 would each give a large depth of field, but you must remember that your shutter speed will also change as you change your aperture.  You want a shutter speed of at least 1/125th second so that your pictures won't become blurry due to "camera shake."  The actual aperture and shutter speed combination you should use for any particular scene will depend upon the amount of light available.  Begin with the highest aperture number and check your shutter speed at that setting.  If it is 1/125 or faster go ahead and take the photo.  If it is slower than 1/125, change the aperture to the next lower number and try again.  Repeat the process until you have an aperture that will allow your shutter speed to be 1/125 or faster.

    Small Depth of Field / Close-up:  Make sure that you are at a distance of no more than 4-5 feet away from your main subject, then adjust your camera aperture so that you have a small depth of field.  (Your main subject should be in sharp focus, but your background should be pleasingly blurred.)
    f/2, f/2.8, f/4 would each give a small depth of field, but you must remember that your shutter speed will also change as you change your aperture. You want a shutter speed of at least 1/125th second so that your pictures won't become blurry due to "camera shake" but you also need to be careful that you are not in the "overexposure" zone. The arrow at the top of the column of numbers in your viewfinder is the overexposure warning symbol.

    Outdoor Scenic - Free choice of Composition:  Use what you have learned in photography class this year to create the very best photograph you can of a place you would describe as "beautiful."  (You may photograph up to four places or scenes or 4 photos of the same scene from different angles or positions.)

    2.    Keep a photographic log in which you record the following information:   
    .......
    frame #,  shutter speed setting,  & aperture setting

    3.    Develop your film

    • Remove your film from your camera, use a changing bag to load it into a light safe developing tank and develop and dry the film according to instructions given in class. 

    • Cut your negatives in sets of 5 frames, insert the negative strips into an archival storage page, label the page (with your name, class period number, and assignment title) and put it into your photography notebook.

    4.  Get a computer log sheet and keep accurate records as you scan your negatives and use PhotoShop to enhance your images.

    5.  Scan the best two images in each of the categories above. (You will be scanning 6 negatives.)

        • (Use a scanner that is designed for scanning negatives.  You may use the scanners in the photography classroom or, if you have a scanner at home that is capable of scanning negatives and transparencies, you may do your scanning at home and save the files onto a CD rom disk.) 
        • click here to go to Scanning Negatives - Instructions / Log Sheet  
        • Save each image file using a resolution of 300 d.p.i. and a print size of  7 x 5 inches.

    6.  Use PhotoShop to make your images look the very best they can possibly look.  (Work carefully!  The goal is 10 zone quality prints with strong composition and impact.  You are trying to produce images with quality that stands out immediately.)

    7.  Print one 5 x 7” print of the best image in each of the four categories above.

    8.  Submit your camera log, your negatives, you computer log sheets, and your three photographs to the teacher for grading.

    Educational Photo Essay Project
    .........Project proposal due (TBA)
    .........1st half of essay section (750 words minimum) due (TBA)
    ........ Completed Essay (text portion) 1500 words due (TBA)
    ........ Completed project (final revised text version + all photos) due (TBA).

      Click here to go to a detailed photo essay project description page.   

    Portfolio Project
    .........Students should selectively add to their collection of portfolio image files throughout the semester.
    .........Check project description page for a list of the photos that must be included.
    ........ Completed project due (TBA).

    Click here to go to a detailed portfolio project description page.

    Career Unit

    1. Each student will select a career based on a particular type of photography

    2. Students will research the educational preparation required to enter that career.  (Similar to the career research project for Photography I)

    3. Students will collect (from newspapers / magazines / on-line, etc.) at least five examples of photographs created by experts in this field.

    4. For each photograph collected students will write a brief paragraph stating the name of the photographer who created it, what is outstanding about this particular example, and what he/she would do differently if s/he had been given that photo assignment.

    5. Each student will create a portfolio of his/her own original photographs relating directly to this career selection (e.g. for fashion photography create a fashion portfolio; for food stylist create a portfolio of great photos of different types of food, etc.)


    Writing Assignments:

    1.  Complete one Critique Guide Worksheet Pack as follows:

    • You may choose any one photograph by one of the master photographers below, or ask the teacher about other categories of photographs that would also be acceptable for this assignment. 
      - Look either in the photo history books in class or research the photographer's work on-line. 
       
      • Diane Arbus
      • Berenice Abbott
      • Alfred Eisenstadt
      • Yousuf Karsh
      • Margaret Bourke-White
      • Gordon Parks
      • Ansel Adams
      • Lewis W. Hine
      • Walker Evans
      • Jerry Uelsmann
      • Scott Mutter
      • Abba Richman
      • Thomas Barbey
      • Others as suggested in class

    ·         Get a "Photo Critique Guide" Worksheet pack from the box in front of the teacher's desk or from the main Photography Class page on this web site.

    ·         Answer all of the questions in the worksheet pack.

    2.  Each student must complete an  Educational Photo Essay Project (see photo essay project below for details).  This is mostly a photo project, but students are required to write an essay about their chosen subject matter.

    3.  Each student must complete a career unit.  This will be mostly a photo project (see career project below for details), but students are required to do some research and to respond in essay form to questions about the career selected.


    OPTIONAL / EXTRA-CREDIT PROJECTS

    "Images With Imagination"
    The video, "Images With Imagination" will be shown in class and specific instructions regarding how to create several different types of imaginative "special effects" photographs will be discussed. 

    1. Wacky Invention  (Rube Goldberg was a comic strip artist who was famous for "creating" wacky machines.  Click here to go to a web site that shows some examples of his work.)

      1. Imagine an ordinary, somewhat boring everyday task.  Now imagine a machine that could do that task for you. 
        You do not have to actually build a working machine.  Just imagine how it would work and take a set of  5 - 10 photographs that illustrate how it could be used.

      2. Photograph the "parts" of the machine before it is assembled.

      3. Photograph the "machine" in its "working" position.

      4. Photograph the steps involved as the machine is used.

      5. Photograph the results.   

    2. Silhouette

      1. Choose a subject that has an interesting yet simple to recognize outline shape and take 3-4 photographs of that subject.

      2. Choose a background scene that includes a bright light source (sunrise, sunset, an artificial flood-light or spot-light, etc.) and take 3-4 photographs of that scene.

      3. Develop & scan your film, or transfer your digital images to your photo class CD rom disk.

      4. Open both images in Adobe PhotoShop.

        1. Use the Lasso tool and draw an outline around the object you want to use as the silhouette shape.

        2. Go to "edit" then to "copy" (or press "Ctrl" + C)

        3. Click your left mouse button down on the other (background scene) photo and
          go to "edit" then to "paste" ( or press "Ctrl" + V)

        4. Go to "image" then to "adjust" then to "levels" and drag the black and gray slider arrows all the way to the right side.  the image should turn into a black silhouette.

        5. If necessary, go to "edit" then to "transform" then to "scale" and adjust the size of the image you have just inserted into the scene.  (Remember to hold down the shift key while you drag the square "handles" in the corners of the transform scale box inward or outward to make the image larger or smaller.)

        6. Adjust the opacity of the layer until it looks natural.

        7. Move the silhouette around in the scene until the composition looks natural and yet has strong impact.

    3.  "Double Exposure" -  photo (Click here for instructions.)

    4.  If you like learning about famous photographers and their work you may also elect to complete extra credit critiques. 

    q       Click here to go to a Critique Worksheet that you can print out and complete.

    q       Select any photographer from the list below and then click here to go to a  link to Masters of Photography Web Site to see information about and photos by that photographer.

    q       Print out a copy of the photo you wish to analyze for your critique.

    q       Answer all of the critique questions as completely and accurately as possible.

    q       Put your name on your papers and staple them together.

    q       Hand them in to the teacher.

    q       If you have already completed your assigned work you will receive your papers back with a grade and the number of extra credit points earned. 

    • Abbott, Berenice

    •  Adams, Ansel

    • Atget, Eugene

    •  Hine, Lewis

    • Lange, Dorothea

    • Riis, Jacob

    • Parks, Gordon

    • Steichen, Edward

    • Stieglitz, Alfred

    • Strand, Paul

    • WEEGEE, (Arthur Fellig)

    • White, Minor

     

     

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