Welcome to the 
Middletown High School North 
Photography II Class - This semester class is for those who LOVE to take photographs.  Almost all of the assigned work for this semester involves taking, processing and printing the students' own original images; therefore, students should be prepared to take a LOT of photographs during these months.

General Assignment List for Photography II
To earn a passing grade for this half-year class you must earn a passing grade average in each of the following three categories: 

  1. Photo assignments and projects
  2. Other assignments and projects (textbook assignments/projects, critiques, writing assignments, etc.) as announced.
  3. Quizzes and Tests

Extra Credit may be earned by completing special photo projects and/or writing assignments. (Click here for examples.)

Writing Assignments:

1.  Complete one Critique Guide Worksheet Pack as follows:

·         Get a "Photo Critique Guide" Worksheet pack from the box in front of the teacher's desk or from the main Photography Class page on this web site.

·         Answer all of the questions in the worksheet pack.

2.  Each student must complete an  Educational Photo Essay Project (see photo essay project below for details).  This is mostly a photo project, but students are required to write an essay about their chosen subject matter.

3.  Each student must complete a career unit.  This will be mostly a photo project (see career project below for details), but students are required to do some research and to respond in essay form to questions about the career selected.

Photo Projects:  (Please Note:  There are four Photo Project Units  due this marking period. Click on the name of the project below  to go to the instructions for that project.)

Photo Project #1 - Night Photography
Photo Project #2- Action Photography / Panning

Photo Project #3 - Product Photography
Photo Project #4 - Window Light

Photo Project #5 - Special Effects

Photo Project #6 - Alphabet

Photo Project #7 - Outdoor Scenic

Photo Essay Project

Portfolio

Career Unit

 

Photo Project #1 - Night & Low Light Photos
(using bracketing technique)

Use the instructions given on the next page to photograph several different types of subject matter in such a way that you capture 4-5 bracketed* sets of high quality night photo &/or other interesting low-light photos.
*Bracketing  (definition)   To “bracket” means take several pictures of the same scene,  but for each one change either the camera lens aperture or the shutter speed, (but not both at the same time).

Remember:  Low Light/Night Photography is guess work!  How much time you need for a proper exposure can vary based on film speed, how much light is present, wind conditions, & even temperature*.  Some shots can take as much as 7-20 minutes! 

·         For this & every assignment it is necessary for you to keep records of frame #, shutter speed, aperture, and distance information on a log sheet. Log sheets are provided for your use.

·         After taking all of the assigned photographs, develop the film using instructions given in class.

·         Allow the processed negatives to dry, then cut the strip into sets of 5 frames and store the negatives in an archival storage page (available in class).

·         Use the instructions given in class to scan the best negative in each set of 5 bracketed images.  Set the output/print size setting on your negative scanner to 9 x 6" so that the resolution setting will be high enough to produce a fine quality image.

·         Use Adobe Photoshop and the instructions given in class to "optimize" your image.

FOR THIS UNIT YOU WILL BE REQUIRED TO SUBMIT* TWO SEPARATE PROJECTS:

1.    Two  9" X 6"  photos as follows: 

.....Select the best two of all of your night/low-light images and make one 9" x 6"  photo quality print of each of the two images.  

....2.    One  9" X 6"  photo as follows: 

.....Select the best of your ghost or white outline images and make one 9" x 6"  photo quality print of that image. 

(Optional)  Select the best of your night/low light images and create a set of greeting cards.  
  (Click here to see instructions that tell you how to create a set of greeting cards.)


(*WHEN YOU SUBMIT YOUR NIGHT PHOTO UNIT PROJECT SET ... remember to submit your camera log sheet and your set of negatives for grading. )

 

NIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY UNIT

(Click here to see a version of these instructions for digital camera users.)

Equipment needed for this project:

·        35mm Camera with suitable lens

·        Tripod

·        Cable Release

·        Film (ISO 125 is acceptable, but faster film will allow shorter exposure times)

·        Small Flashlight (useful to see camera or lens when you are checking or adjusting aperture &/or shutter speed)  

·        Pack camera, cable release & tripod carefully
(If weather is very cold, place camera in plastic bag first to prevent condensation problems)  
*Very cold weather can cause camera/meter to ‘lock up’&/or can cause lens to ‘fog up’ (due to condensation).

SAFETY RULES: 

    • Never go out alone when you intend to photograph at night.
      (Always go in the company of another student in your photography class or with some other responsible adult.)
    • Always dress appropriately.  

Directions:  (To produce a good photograph with low light and/or night conditions)

A.  Practice these steps before you go to the place where you want to take your photograph(s)

 1.)  Set up camera and tripod

 2.)  Attach, test, & practice using your cable release 

3.)  Set lens aperture to f/8 

B.  Select an appropriate place for night or low light photographs

C.   Set up tripod and mount the camera; make sure that camera is level with the plane of the horizon.

D.  Attach cable release

E.  Set lens aperture to f / 8

F. Compose your photo & Focus carefully (use distance scale if necessary)

G.  Turn your camera’s on/off switch to the ‘on’ position

H.  Take a set of bracketed* exposures as follows:

1.  Set shutter speed at 1/2 second (Shutter Speed / Mode readout Window shows ‘2’)

2.  Set shutter speed at 1 second (Shutter Speed / Mode readout Window shows ‘1’)

3.  Set shutter speed at ‘B’ (Shutter Speed / Mode readout shows ‘B’)

      Open camera shutter by pressing in cable release pin and holding it depressed

      wait 30 seconds, then release the  pin to close shutter.

4.  Set shutter speed at ‘B’ (Shutter Speed / Mode readout shows ‘B’)

      Open camera shutter by pressing in cable release pin and holding it depressed

      wait 1 minute, then release the  pin to close shutter.

5.  Set shutter speed at ‘B’ (Shutter Speed / Mode readout Window shows ‘B’)

      Open camera shutter by pressing in cable release pin and holding it depressed

      wait 2 minutes, then release the  pin to close shutter.

I.  Pack up camera, cable release & tripod carefully

(If weather is very cold, place camera in plastic bag first to prevent condensation problems)

Take Four different sets of photos as explained above – one set of five photos for each of four different scenes.

For your fifth photo set use the instructions given in class to take either a “ghost” photo or a light outline photo.

Suggested Aperture/Shutter Speed Combinations  (with ISO 400 film)
For other special low light situations

Situation

f/stop

Bracket using these Shutter speeds

Neon Lights                  

f/4       

1/30th sec., 1/60,1/125,  1/250,

Campfires

f/5.6    

1/15thsec., 1/30th, 1/60,1/125,

Television                      

f/5.6    

1/30th sec., 1/60,1/125,

Brightly Lit Streets         

f/4       

1/8th sec., 1/15th,1/30th, 1/60,1/125,

Floodlit Buildings

f/16     

1 minute, 30 seconds, 15sec.,1 sec., 1/2 sec. 

Skylines                        

f/5.6    

 1/2 sec., 1 sec., 30 sec., 1 minute, 2 minutes

 

Landscape w/ full moon

f/8

1/2 sec., 1 sec., 30 sec., 1 minute, 2 minutes

Landscape w/snow

f/8

1/2 sec., 1 sec., 15 sec., 30 sec., 1 minute

Rainy Night

f/11

1second, 2 sec.4 sec., 8 sec., 15 sec., 30 sec.,

Snowy Night

f/11

1/2 sec., 1 sec., 15 sec., 30 sec., 1 minute

Wet Streets

f/8

1/4 second

Wet beach                                          

f/8

1/4 second

 

Home interior - night -average. lighting

f/2

1/15thsecond., 1/30th sec., 1/60 sec.,

Interiors w/ bright fluorescent lighting

f/4

1/15th sec., 1/30th sec., 1/60th sec.,1/125th sec., 

School stages & auditoriums (bright)

f/2

1/30th second, 1/60th sec.,1/125th sec., 

School stages & auditoriums (average)

f/2

1/15th second, 1/30th sec., 1/60th sec.,

Candlelighted close-ups

f/2

1/4th sec., 1/8th sec., 1/15th sec., 1/30th, 1/60,

Store windows

f/4

1/30th second, 1/60thsec.,1/125th sec.,

Flood lighted buildings / fountains

f/2

½ second, 1/8th sec., 1/15th sec., 1/30th sec.,

Skyline 10 min after sunset

f/5.6

1/15th second, 1/30th sec., 1/60,1/125

Fireworks

f/16

keep shutter open for several bursts

Night sports events (Brightly Lit)

f/2

1/60th sec.,1/125th sec., 1/250th sec

Church interiors (tungsten light)

f/2

1/15th sec., 1/30th sec., 1/60 sec.,.  

Amusement parks / fairs

f/2

1/15th sec., 1/30th sec., 1/60th sec.,1/125th sec.,

 

Photo Project #2 - Capturing Action

·         As a part of this unit, students are shown a video that provides specific instructions for how to capture the true peak of physical action along with many examples of this type of photograph. 

·         At the beginning of this unit the teacher explains and demonstrates exactly how to set and use flash units to obtain high quality "freeze action" photos.  As a part of this explanation & demonstration, each student is given a flash unit to use in class so that he or she can follow along as the teacher explains each step and setting, and for additional "hands-on" practice afterward.

·         It is not required, but it is strongly recommended  that a flash unit be used to capture the peak of physical action for at least 1/2 of the pictures taken for this assignment  (click here to see a copy of the instructions given in class for using flash units. )

  •   As a part of this "action" unit, the teacher also explains a method used to “freeze” action outdoors on a bright sunny day by using a very fast shutter speed.  For this type of photograph your camera’s shutter speed must be at least 1/250th second for most types of human or animal action and 1/500th second for action on wheels (without a motor). 

  • Students may elect to use either a film camera or their own digital camera for this assignment.  (A disposable camera may be used if no other option is available, but is not really recommended for best results.)

o       If you are using a film camera ...  

  • It is necessary for you to keep records of frame #, shutter speed, aperture, and distance information on a log sheet. Log sheets are provided for your use.

  •  On one roll of film, take a set of 24-25 photos as follows:
     Take a set of 20 photographs in which you capture the peak of physical action

  • If you are using a Minolta camera…

1.      set your camera’s shutter speed dial to “AUTO,” then point the camera toward the action taking place. 

2.      Look in the viewfinder to see the actual shutter speed the camera’s meter is selecting for that scene. 

3.      IF that shutter speed is the correct one, go ahead and take the picture. 

4.      If the shutter speed is not fast enough, turn your camera’s aperture ring to select a lower number.  This will open up the aperture and let more light into the camera. 

5.      Look in the viewfinder and check the shutter speed again.  IF that shutter speed is the correct one, go ahead and take the picture

6.      Repeat steps 4-5 until your shutter speed is fast enough to freeze the action.

  • If you are using a Kalimar camera…

1.      set your camera’s shutter speed dial to either 1/250th second (for human action) or 1/500th (for action on non-motorized wheels)second then point the camera toward the action taking place. 

2.      Look in the viewfinder to see which color light diode is indicated.

3.      IF you see a green light, go ahead and take the picture. 

4.      If you see a yellow light you do not have enough light energy to form an image on the film.  Turn your camera’s aperture ring to select a lower number.  This will open up the aperture and let more light into the camera. 

5.      If you see a red light you have too much light energy & the image on the film will be too dense.  Turn your camera’s aperture ring to select a higher number.  This will open up the aperture and let more light into the camera. 

6.      Look in the viewfinder and check the color of the light diode.  IF you see a green light now, go ahead and take the picture

7.      Repeat steps 4-5 until your shutter speed is fast enough to freeze the action.

  • Develop the film using instructions given in class.

  • Allow the processed negatives to dry, then cut the strip into sets of 5 frames and store the negatives in an archival storage page (available in class).

  • Use the instructions given in class to scan all of your "peak of physical action" negatives.

  • Set the output/print size setting on your negative scanner to 8 x 10" so that the resolution setting will be high enough to produce a fine quality image.

  •  If you are using a digital camera...

  • Take a set of 20 photographs in which you capture the peak of physical action.

  • When you have finished taking all of the assigned photos, submit the CD rom disk or media card that has your original image files to the teacher so that she can transfer them to your HS North student computer documents folder.  (All media cards and/or CD rom disks will be returned to the student immediately after the files have been transferred.)

·         Use the instructions given in class to make sure that your images are "grayscale."

  • (All)  Use Adobe Photoshop and the instructions given in class to make a contact sheet that shows all of your action pictures.
  • (All)  Select the best two of your  "peak of physical action" images.
  • (All) Use Adobe Photoshop and the instructions given in class to "optimize" each of the two images that you selected.
  • (All)  Use instructions given in class to set the printer settings and print one 6 x 9" or larger print of each image.
  • (All)  Submit your camera log sheet, your negatives or digital files, your contact sheet and your two prints to the teacher for grading.

Panning
.........Students will be escorted outside where they will take turns as "models" running or jogging and as photographers capturing the action.
(click here to see instructions for taking panning photographs.)
 

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Photo Project # 3: Product Photography

........................

    For this Product Photo unit all photos will be taken during the class period. 

    • Lighting set-ups and all required Photoshop techniques will be demonstrated by the teacher.
    • Students will work independently to complete all parts of the assignment.

 ...1.  Use digital cameras and the instructions given in class and on the product lighting hand-out sheets to take two black outline and two white outline photographs of each of two different glassware objects.  

  • Bring your digital picture disk to your computer and open all of the images in Adobe PhotoShop.

  • Use “File” >  “Save As” command to copy your images onto your CD rom disk (or your on-line computer folder if you have room there) and save the copies.  Remove the original digital disk from the computer and return it to the teacher.  You should work with your copies.  

2.  Select the best / sharpest photo for each category & for each object.  Make your images look the very best they can possibly look.  (Work carefully!  The goal is 10 zone quality prints with strong composition and impact.  You are trying to produce images with quality that stands out immediately.)

3.  Rotate and crop the images if necessary, then go to Image > Image Size, and in the "print size" section of the box make sure that the resolution is 300 pixels per inch and that the longest side is approximately 7 inches and the shortest side is no more than 4.9 inches.

 

4.  Create a new final photo project page document and place two pictures on the new document page space.   (Click here for instructions.)   Each new document should contain one black outline and one white outline photo of the same object.  

 

5.  Use the "T" (text) tool to type your name onto the photo print page.  

 

6.  When you are ready to make your actual print-outs, ask the teacher to check your settings, then print two copies of each page - one to submit for grading and one to keep in your notebook "photo gallery" section.

7.  Pick up your prints from the printer and write your name and class period on the back. Submit both of your photo project pages plus your computer log sheets to the teacher for grading.

Photo Project # 4: Using Window Light
Part I - Window Light

justincc.jpg (28056 bytes)       Photo By Justin Cavadas-Cabelo

Some of the world’s best photographs have been taken using available light.

The method described below involves an indoor set-up; however, the same principles can be used indoors or outdoors.

-- For each photo that you take it is advisable that you record
FRAME #, APERTURE, and ACTUAL SHUTTER SPEED on a photo log.

  • 1.  A tripod and cable release are very useful tools for this type of photography, but if you do not have access to these tools you can still produce reasonably sharp available light photographs if you use a handheld camera with a standard (50mm) lens, brace yourself against a solid support, and adjust your camera settings so that your actual shutter speed will be...

1/30th second or faster for still objects,
1/60th second or faster for portraits of people, and
1/125th second or faster for pictures of an animal (or animals).

  • 2.  Adjust your camera so that it is level and at an appropriate height.
  • 3. Use your camera’s built-in metering system to determine your best starting point for bracketing.  (For Minolta cameras, for example, begin by turning the shutter speed selector dial until the mode readout window says "AUTO")
  • 4. Position your subject (a person, animal, object, etc.) beside a window and facing your camera (so that diffused sunlight is shining directly on one side of your subject & your camera is pointed toward your subject) .
    •

    CORRECT diagram.gif (2781 bytes)

  • 5. DO NOT place your subject between the camera and the window and do not face your camera directly toward the window. This would create a ‘back-lighting’ effect (when the camera’s meter ‘reads’ the light outside the window instead of the light that is reflected from your subject) and your subject would be underexposed in your picture (it would appear as a silhouette)
    •

    diagrm2.gif (3510 bytes)

  • 6. Begin with an aperture opening of f/5.6 or larger*, being careful to maintain a shutter speed that is appropriate to your subject (see step # 3 above for suggested shutter speeds). With these settings you will have a relatively small depth of field (background - blurry & ‘simplified’).
  • 7. Compose and focus carefully and then press the shutter release button gently.
  • 8. Take a moment to write down your frame number, actual shutter speed, and aperture setting on a photo log.
  • 9. Turn the shutter speed selector dial until it is at the same number as your actual shutter speed in step #8 above (the speed shown by your camera’s automatic metering system).
  • 10. "Bracket" by taking four more photos of your subject at this same shutter speed setting
          but for the 2nd second photograph --
              change the aperture to the f/stop 2 stops smaller* than your first setting
         for the 3rd photograph --
              change the aperture to the next f/stop smaller* than your first setting
         for the 4th photograph --
              change the aperture to the next f/stop larger* than your first setting
         for the 5th photograph --
              change the aperture to the f/stop 2 stops larger* than your first setting
    •

    ____________________

    * Remember - what we refer to as f/stop numbers are not integers, but fractions:

    f (focal length)
    actual diameter of the lens opening

    therefore, a large f/stop number, like f/16 or f/22 refers to a small lens opening
    while a small f/stop number, like f/1.7 or f/2 refers to a large lens opening.

     

    Examples of Student Existing Light Photographs

    zglinski.jpg (23849 bytes)   Photo by Kristen Zglinki         justincc.jpg (28056 bytes)       Photo By Justin Cavadas-Cabelo

    fields.jpg (15000 bytes)   Photo by Adrienne Fields      rotondo.jpg (23831 bytes)      Photo by Lois Ann Rotondo

    (To see a larger view of the student photographs above, just click on the thumbnail image. 
    To return to this page again just click your browser's 'back' button.)

    Special Effects Photography  Students will be required to submit two special effects type photos.
    The product montage photo project will be completed in class. Categories of other photo projects that may be submitted to meet this requirement are described below.  (Click on a link to see details for that project.)

    Digital Montage Photo Project

    Digital Montage

    .................

    1.  Pre-plan your idea in your mind &/or sketch it on paper.

    2.  Use a digital camera and a copy stand light set up to take three sharp, well lighted, and finely detailed photos of a small product.

    3.  Use the same digital camera to take three pictures of a person.  The person should be posing in a position that you can later combine with your product to create a convincing montage photo.  If you photograph the person against a plain white or a plain black background you will have an easier time “copying” and “pasting” later.

    4.  Bring your digital picture disk to your computer and open all of the images in Adobe PhotoShop.

    5.  Use “File” >  “Save As” command to copy your images onto your CD rom disk (or your on-line computer folder if you have room there) and save the copies.  Remove the original digital disk from the computer and return it to the teacher.  You should work with your copies.

    6.  Select your best product photo and your best person photo and close the other ones.

    7.  Begin with the person photo.

    • Use the “magic wand” selection tool to select the background area of the photo.
      (The “marching ants” should surround the background area.)

    • Click the right-side quick mask circle to check the selection area. (Use the paintbrush tool and the eraser tool to make sure that the entire background area is selected.)

    • Click on the left-side quick mask circle to exit quick mask and change the selection indicator fro a color back to the “marching ants.”

    • Go to the “Select” column and choose “Inverse” (because you don’t really want the background – you really want to select the area that contains the person.)

    • Go to “Edit” > “Copy”  (or Ctrl key plus C key)

    • Go to “Layer” > “New” > “Layer” (this will produce a blank transparent layer.)

    • Go to “edit” > “Paste” (or Ctrl key plus V key) – This will paste your person onto the new blank transparent layer. 

    • Save your file using “File” > “Save As” – and give your file an appropriate new name.  Make sure you save it as a .psd (PhotoShop) type file so that your layers will be saved and available for future use.

    8.  Now you are ready to work with your product photo.

    • Drag the person layer from the person photo to the product photo.  (This should paste a new layer onto your product photo and the person image should appear near the product.)

    • Check to make sure that you have enough room for the person to fit according to your design idea.

    • If you do have enough room skip down to step E in this section.

    • If you do not have enough room, make sure the person layer is highlighted in the layers box of your product photo and go to “Layer” > “Delete Layer” to remove the person.

    1. Go to “Image” > “Image Size” to check the size of your original product photo.

    2. Go to “File” > “New” and create a new image box that is about two inches wider and two inches taller than your original image.  You can make these dimensions even larger if necessary. 

    • Make sure that the “contents” selection is “transparent”

    • Make sure that the “mode” selection is RGB

       c.  After your new blank image opens up,

    • click on your product photo,

    • Go to “edit” > “copy” (or use Ctrl + the C key)

    •  Click on your blank image to make it the active one

    • Go to “edit” > “paste” (or use Ctrl + the V key)

    • This will paste the product photo into the new file space.  Use the arrow key to drag it into position.

    • Click the rectangular marquee tool to make it active.  Click on the side of the product photo that you need to add extra space to & “drag” a rectangle to select it for copying.  Try to select an area that has background color but none of the actual product in it.

    • Go to “edit” > “copy” (or use Ctrl + the C key)

    • Go to “edit” > “paste” (or use Ctrl + the V key)

    • Use the arrow tool to move the copied section into position.

    •  Go to “edit” > “transform” > “flip horizontal” to make the section blend in better.  (If you are adding a section to the top or bottom instead of to one side use “flip vertical” instead of “flip horizontal.”)

    • Repeat the last few steps as many times as necessary until you have enough space to add your person image.

    ...d.  Go to “Layer” > “Flatten Image” to combine all of your new background pieces with your product image.

    9.  Click on your person photo to make it the active one.

    • Make sure that the layers box is showing.

    • Click on the layer that has the person with all the edges smoothed & a transparent background

    • Hold your left mouse button down and drag that layer over your product photo image (or your expanded product photo image).

    • Use the arrow tool to move your person into the correct position.

    • Go to “edit” > “transform” >  “scale”

      • Hold down the shift key to keep your person image in proportion. 

      • Click the left mouse button down on one corner of the scaling box and hold both buttons down while you drag the corner inward or outward to re-size your person image.  Double click anywhere inside the scale box to make the box disappear. 

      • Release the mouse button first and then the shift button

    • .Go to “image” > “adjust” > “levels” to adjust the levels of the person layer to make it match the product photo layer.

    10.  Next add realism by adding a shadow for your person that mimics the shadow cast by your product.

    • Go to “layer” > “duplicate layer” (call your new layer “shadow”)

    • Go to “edit” > “transform” > rotate and rotate the new shadow layer until it falls at the same angle as the other shadows in the picture.  Double click anywhere inside the rotate box to make the box disappear.

    • Go to “edit” > “transform” > “distort” and move the little pull/push boxes around the edges of the distort box until the shadow seems to look “normal.”  Double click anywhere inside the distort box to make the box disappear.

    11.  Save your file using “File” > “Save As” – and give your file an appropriate new name.  Make sure you save it as a .psd (PhotoShop) type file so that your layers will be saved and available for future use.
     

    12.  Crop your image to the frame shape you want to use for your ad.
     

    13.  Re-size your image for a good print out.

    • Go to “Image” > “Image Size”

    • Change the resolution from 72 pixels per inch to 300 pixels per inch.